Like culinary trends that resurface time and again, duck is waddling its way back onto menus, becoming a sought-after dish in restaurants across the English-speaking world. As diners and chefs alike seek richer flavors and sustainable options, Restaurants That Serve Duck are experiencing a significant surge in popularity. Forget the fleeting fads; duck is cementing its status as a timeless protein, ready to rival traditional mainstays like chicken and steak.
Across the United States and beyond, from bustling city brasseries to innovative bistros, the presence of duck on menus is undeniable. Establishments like Francie in Brooklyn, renowned for its dry-aged crown of duck, and Pasjoli in Los Angeles, celebrated for its classic canard à la presse, exemplify this trend. In Chicago, Obélix presents an extensive duck-centric menu, while Z & Y Peking Duck in San Francisco offers the luxurious option of caviar-topped Peking duck, showcasing the versatility and appeal of duck in diverse culinary settings. This isn’t just a fleeting moment; it’s a full-fledged “duckaissance.”
Duck’s culinary history spans centuries and crosses cultures. From the iconic Peking duck, with its crispy skin and rich flavor, to the comforting bistro classic, duck confit, and the luxurious indulgence of foie gras, duck has long held a place in gastronomic traditions. Even duck à l’orange, a French dish once deemed an “old gourmet warhorse,” is poised for a revival. The resurgence also shines a spotlight on dishes like duck flambé and the elaborate canard à la presse, each contributing to duck’s modern-day allure.
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A traditional duck press used at Pasjoli restaurant, highlighting the classic preparation of canard à la presse, a sophisticated duck dish.
Chef Dave Beran of Pasjoli, a devotee of canard à la presse, emphasizes its significance. This dish, a “showpiece” at his Santa Monica restaurant since its 2019 opening, reflects a deep appreciation for culinary history. Beran’s history with the dish extends back to 2011, when he featured it on the Paris 1906 menu at Next in Chicago, and later at his now-closed Los Angeles restaurant, Dialogue. Canard à la presse, with its roots in the esteemed 400-year-old Parisian restaurant La Tour d’Argent, is experiencing a renaissance. While still rare in America, it can be found in select restaurants like Ariete in Miami, Edwins in Cleveland, L’Antagoniste in Brooklyn, and Daniel in New York City, each requiring advance notice due to the dish’s intricate preparation.
The magic of canard à la presse lies in its theatrical presentation and rich flavors. A medium-rare duck is expertly dissected tableside; the breasts and legs are removed, and the remaining carcass is pressed using a specialized vise. This process extracts a luxurious, blood and organ-infused sauce, which is then reduced to intensify its flavors. The rarity of duck presses themselves adds to the dish’s prestige, as these devices are costly, scarce, and challenging to procure, making restaurants that serve duck press a destination for culinary connoisseurs.
La Tour d’Argent’s legacy with duck is legendary, numbering each duck served since its inception. By 1976, they had served their 500,000th duck, reaching one million by 2003. Recent figures indicate over 1,183,000 duck dinners served. Pasjoli, following this tradition, also provides numbered postcards to diners who order the canard à la presse, currently nearing 19,000, a testament to its growing popularity.
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A perfectly prepared duck dish at Pasjoli, showcasing the restaurant’s dedication to quality and traditional French techniques in duck cuisine.
Pasjoli’s commitment to sustainability and minimizing waste is another key aspect of why restaurants that serve duck are gaining favor. Chef Beran emphasizes a “closed-loop” approach, utilizing every part of the duck. The breast is served alongside duck confit, which also enhances a salad with crispy duck skin and is incorporated into a bread pudding. This comprehensive use ensures that “there is no waste,” highlighting the economic and ethical advantages of serving duck.
Francie in Brooklyn mirrors this sustainable philosophy with its roasted crown of duck. This visually stunning dish, presented whole on a platter adorned with herbs and flowers, is created from ducks butchered in-house. The crown is dry-aged for about 30 days, while the rest of the duck is ingeniously integrated into other dishes, demonstrating a commitment to whole-animal utilization.
Francie Chef Chris Cipollone’s Sustainable Approach
Chef and co-owner Chris Cipollone of Francie emphasizes this holistic approach: “Since the bird gave its life for the restaurant, we feel it is necessary to utilize the entire bird.” This philosophy extends to using bones for jus, rendering fat, and incorporating leg meat into dishes like pappardelle Bolognese and duck mortadella, showcasing the resourcefulness of restaurants that serve duck with intention.
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Francie’s dry-aged crown of duck presentation, highlighting the restaurant’s focus on whole-animal utilization and visually appealing duck dishes.
Obélix in Chicago further exemplifies the creative possibilities of duck-centric cuisine. With a menu that explores the full spectrum of duck preparations, this modern French restaurant offers dishes ranging from foie gras macarons to dry-aged duck breast with smoked duck sausage, duck heart and skin brochettes, and a richly flavored salade Lyonnaise featuring duck confit, duck fat croutons, and a duck egg.
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Foie terrine at Obelix Restaurant, showcasing innovative uses of duck and highlighting the restaurant’s diverse duck menu.
Chef de cuisine Nathan Kim of Obélix explains their comprehensive approach: “Using whole animals means being creative with all of its unique parts.” By bringing in whole ducks, Obélix not only achieves cost efficiency but also challenges their culinary team to innovate and maximize the potential of every part of the duck.
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Duck macarons at Obelix, demonstrating the restaurant’s playful and inventive approach to incorporating duck into unexpected dishes.
This innovative spirit is evident in dishes like Obélix’s “Foie-Co,” a foie gras taco created by chef-owner Oliver Poilevey. This dish, blending seared foie gras, pickled cherries, and salsa macha on a blue corn tortilla, perfectly marries classic French technique with global influences, pushing the boundaries of duck cuisine.
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Peking duck at Z&Y Peking Duck in San Francisco, emphasizing the historical significance and global appeal of duck dishes in restaurants.
Z & Y Peking Duck in San Francisco offers a different, yet equally compelling, perspective on duck’s enduring appeal. Executive chef Lijun Han emphasizes the rich history of Peking duck, tracing back over 400 years to imperial China. Serving around 20 ducks daily, Z & Y Peking Duck highlights the meticulous multi-day preparation process required to achieve the dish’s signature crispy skin and juicy meat. The restaurant also honors tradition by using leftover duck bones for Peking duck soup, while innovating with options like caviar-topped duck, blending Eastern and Western culinary elements.
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Duck breast at Myriel Restaurant, showcasing a more contemporary approach to duck dishes and highlighting the versatility of duck in various restaurant settings.
Chef-owner Karyn Tomlinson of Myriel in St. Paul offers insight into why duck resonates with diners today. “Duck has the feel of luxury,” she notes, positioning it as a special yet approachable protein. Tomlinson, like other chefs, underscores the sustainability of duck, noting its minimal waste and versatility. From aged breasts and confit legs to giblets and hearts used in tasting menus, Myriel maximizes duck utilization, even using duck fat for confit potatoes and creating all-purpose stock and jus.
Ultimately, the resurgence of duck in restaurants is a testament to its timeless appeal. Whether driven by a desire for richer flavors, a commitment to sustainability, or the creative ingenuity of chefs, duck is firmly back in the culinary spotlight. From classic preparations to innovative dishes, restaurants that serve duck are offering diners compelling reasons to choose this versatile and delicious protein, proving that some culinary classics never truly go out of style.
