If you’re on the hunt for “Restaurants Near Me Serving Soup,” chances are your craving is a little more specific – you’re dreaming of soup dumplings. And if soup dumplings are on your mind, then Din Tai Fung is likely a name you already know. These delicate pockets of flavor, also known as xiao long bao, originated near Shanghai, but Din Tai Fung, a Taiwanese chain established in 1972, has truly popularized them globally. With over 170 locations, including one in Hong Kong that has been Michelin-starred multiple times, Din Tai Fung is renowned for its precise and elegant soup dumplings, each boasting exactly 18 meticulous folds.
Portland food lovers were excited when Din Tai Fung opened in Tigard’s Washington Square Mall in 2018, and anticipation is building for a second location at Pioneer Place in 2023. However, the arrival of Seattle-based mini-chain Dough Zone in South Waterfront has shaken up Portland’s soup dumpling landscape, sparking a delicious debate. Can this PNW newcomer rival the Taiwanese giant? And how do Portland’s own independent gems, like Duck House and XLB, measure up in this tasty competition?
To answer these questions, we dove deep into the world of soup dumplings, considering every element that makes a truly exceptional xiao long bao. The perfect soup dumpling is a symphony of textures and flavors. The wrapper, skillfully rolled thin yet resilient enough to be lifted with chopsticks, should be almost translucent. The pleats, ideally numerous and fine, shouldn’t result in a doughy top knot. The star, of course, is the soup itself – a flavorful, molten aspic that melts into a rich broth, ideally well-seasoned, not overly greasy, and generously portioned. The pork filling can range from minimalist, highlighting the meat’s natural taste, to more complex, with additions like ginger or sesame oil. Finally, the dipping sauce is crucial. For many purists, malted, slightly sweet black Chinkiang vinegar with fresh ginger slivers is the gold standard, although variations exist, some opting for a simpler red vinegar or omitting ginger altogether.
A close-up shot of XLB soup dumplings in a bamboo steamer basket, showcasing their delicate pleats and steamy appearance.
At XLB (4090 N Williams Ave), nestled in the Boise neighborhood, the soup dumplings arrive steaming hot with red vinegar already on the table, thankfully accompanied by ginger shreds. For black vinegar aficionados, self-serve is readily available. The wrappers here are on the doughier side but feature well-defined folds. The soup, while slightly salty and herb-infused, is abundant and satisfyingly slurpable.
Duck House's soup dumplings are presented on a plate, highlighting their larger size and 18 folds, though the dipping sauce lacks ginger.
Duck House (1968 SW Fifth Ave) is a downtown favorite, known for its extensive menu ranging from Sichuan pork belly to honey walnut prawns, not to mention their cocktail list. However, our focus was squarely on their soup dumplings, and visually, they impressed. Each dumpling boasted a consistent 18 folds and a plump, larger-than-average size. Disappointingly, the provided black vinegar lacked ginger. The pork filling is coarsely ground, which somewhat detracts from the desired silky texture, but a distinct sesame oil toastiness adds a unique and appealing flavor dimension. Each dumpling held a decent amount of soup, though perhaps not quite enough for a full, generous slurp.
A potential hidden gem is Szechuan Chef (7007 S Macadam Ave), a low-key neighborhood eatery in Southwest Portland, easily spotted by the large soup dumpling photo on its entrance. While the dumplings here may not win any beauty contests – with fewer folds and a few arriving slightly broken – Szechuan Chef excels in the essential accompaniments: shredded ginger and black vinegar are readily provided. But the true highlight is the sheer volume of soup within each dumpling. Prepare for a soup explosion – each bite is bursting with a generous mouthful of well-seasoned, flavorful broth, warm and delightfully slippery.
Newcomer Dough Zone (1910 S River Dr), also situated in South Portland, presents a curious case. Ironically, the dough is the weakest link; the areas between the folds are dry, and the top knot becomes rather hard. While ginger is absent from their black vinegar, the pork filling – proudly advertised as Berkshire-Duroc – is expertly seasoned, boasting a subtle sweetness and a satisfyingly ample soup content.
Din Tai Fung's signature soup dumplings are showcased in a steamer basket, emphasizing their petite size, perfect pleating, and elegant presentation.
And what about the suburban sophistication of Din Tai Fung (9724 SW Washington Square Rd, Tigard)? Their dumplings are undeniably the most visually appealing, smaller than the others, designed for a single, elegant bite. The pleats spiral beautifully, resembling blooming flowers. Shredded ginger and black vinegar are present and accounted for, and the dough is impressively thin yet robust. However, upon biting in, the soup is surprisingly restrained. Was it just one dumpling? Perhaps not. There’s a sense of overall refinement, almost to a fault, like a beautifully patterned but somewhat underwhelmingly luxurious shirt.
Perhaps I’m just a bit unrefined myself, but I tend to favor soup dumplings that lean towards their more rustic, homemade origins – a little less polished, a bit larger, extra soupy, maybe with a pleat or two out of place. Imagine combining Din Tai Fung’s impeccable dipping sauce and presentation with Szechuan Chef’s exuberant soupiness and Duck House’s generous size. That might just be soup dumpling perfection. But one thing is certain: genuine, comforting, and soupy happiness can be found in any of these dumplings. So, indulge often, and always enjoy them piping hot when seeking out “restaurants near me serving soup.”
