Le Servan emerged onto the Paris dining scene in 2014, during a period when the city’s culinary reputation was undergoing a vibrant resurgence. Amidst a wave of younger chefs establishing smaller, innovative restaurants in the outer arrondissements, Le Servan quickly garnered attention for its fresh approach to French cuisine. This restaurant played a significant role in revitalizing France’s gastronomic image, proving that Paris was once again a hotbed for exciting and contemporary dining experiences.
My initial visits to Le Servan were marked by culinary excitement. The cuisine was a compelling fusion of classic French techniques and locally sourced ingredients, elevated by an intriguing blend of spices and flavors that reflected the diverse heritage of chef Tatiana Levha. On my first visit, I was so impressed by the dishes, but when I politely requested to take a photo of Cheffe Tatiana for a potential feature, she gracefully declined. I did, however, previously share my experiences from another memorable meal at Le Servan, detailing more of the restaurant’s ambiance and culinary style.
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Despite living nearby, time slipped away, and I hadn’t returned to Le Servan in quite a while. Paris is a city that constantly births new and noteworthy restaurants, making it easy to overlook established gems, especially those that have stepped out of the immediate spotlight. However, a suggestion from a friend, a former Paris resident, prompted a delightful revisit. My enthusiastic “Why not?” led to a truly exceptional meal, one so impressive that a return visit with Romain was immediately planned – this time, under much more celebratory circumstances.
A bottle of Divona sparkling cider from Johanna Cécillon, served in Le Servan Paris, highlighting the restaurant's curated beverage selection.
My recent dining experience began with a superb glass of sparkling Divona cider from Johanna Cécillon. Observing the next table, my attention was immediately captured by their Sardines on toasted Ten Belles brioche. The allure was irresistible. This dish arrived as a perfectly formed square of warm brioche, generously topped with a delicate, subtly spiced red pepper butter and adorned with pristine, raw sardine fillets. The desire for a second serving was strong, but the anticipation of the blood sausage wontons kept me in check.
Le Servan Paris's sardine dish served on toasted Ten Belles brioche with red pepper butter, showcasing the restaurant's focus on fresh, high-quality ingredients.
Boudin Noir Wontons: A Bold Appetizer
Even for those who may harbor reservations about blood sausage, Le Servan’s boudin noir wontons with sweet chili sauce are a revelation. These are not your typical heavy blood sausage dish; instead, they are a light, flavorful, and exquisitely balanced hors d’oeuvre, perfectly designed to awaken the palate before the main courses.
Le Servan Paris's signature Boudin Noir Wontons with sweet chili sauce, demonstrating the restaurant's innovative approach to French-Asian fusion cuisine.
Parisian diners are increasingly embracing bolder flavors and authentic culinary experiences, and chefs are confidently incorporating ingredients once considered unconventional. Chef Levha, with her Filipino heritage (also evident in her restaurant Double Dragon, which delves deeper into Filipino flavors), subtly integrates spice into Le Servan’s menu. While spicy items are marked, the heat is often presented as condiments separate from the main components, allowing diners to customize their experience. Naturally, I embraced the spice.
Close-up of spicy condiments served at Le Servan Paris, highlighting the restaurant's attention to detail in flavor layering and presentation.
Winter Squash Tartlet: A Symphony of Flavors
The spicy condiments were indeed robust and flavorful without being overpowering, each adding a delightful dimension to the dishes. The chili chutney served with the visually appealing winter squash tartlet, adorned with Mimolette cheese cream and delicate marigold petals, was a particularly harmonious pairing. (My apologies for the less-than-perfect photo, hampered by dim lighting and a slightly cropped chutney detail!).
Winter squash tartlet with Mimolette cheese cream and marigold petals at Le Servan Paris, showcasing seasonal ingredients and artistic plating.
Girolles with Potatoes and Savagnin Cream: A Truffle-Infused Delight
Romain, a devoted mushroom enthusiast, opted for the girolles with potatoes and savagnin cream, a Jura wine-infused creation, generously finished with shaved truffles. This dish was a testament to the restaurant’s ability to elevate simple ingredients into sophisticated and deeply satisfying plates.
Girolles with potatoes and Savagnin cream topped with shaved truffles at Le Servan Paris, emphasizing rich, earthy flavors and luxurious ingredients.
Mushroom Ravioli: A Hearty and Flavorful Main Course
For my main course, I chose the large ravioli, generously filled with wild mushrooms, bathed in butter sauce, and topped with crunchy toasted nuts and dollops of creamy mascarpone. The filling is a daily variation, often featuring vegetables. This particular rendition also contained a perfectly runny yolk within, making it an exceptionally comforting and substantial winter dish – a balanced combination of carbohydrates, healthy fats, earthy mushrooms, and protein-rich nuts, aligning with current dietary trends.
When it comes to wine, we generally favor white wines these days. Interestingly, many Parisian dinner tables seem to be dominated by robust, tannic Bordeaux wines, which I personally find can overpower food and sometimes lead to headaches. I much prefer lighter red wines, offering a more harmonious balance with food.
Wines from Beaujolais, the southern part of Burgundy, perfectly fit this preference. The sommelier expertly recommended the AmalGamay, a blend of Gamay and Aligoté grapes, which proved to be an excellent choice for the evening.
A bottle of AmalGamay wine at Le Servan Paris, showcasing the restaurant's thoughtfully curated wine list featuring diverse and well-priced selections.
While wine prices in many mid-range Paris restaurants have been on the rise, Le Servan maintains a refreshing selection of bottles in the €32-€55 range, and glasses are still very reasonably priced at €6 to €9. This commitment to accessible pricing further enhances its appeal.
Le Servan Paris's Tarte Tatin, praised as one of the best, highlighting the restaurant's dedication to classic French desserts.
Tarte Tatin and Citrus Tart: Sensational Desserts
Desserts can sometimes feel like an afterthought in smaller restaurants, often due to the added expense of a dedicated pastry chef. (Harrumph!) However, Le Servan’s tarte Tatin was truly exceptional, ranking among the best I’ve ever tasted. It had that unmistakable freshness of being just baked, still radiating warmth from the oven. Purists might argue against accompaniments, but a dollop of crème cru (raw milk crème fraîche) on the side was a welcome addition – Pas moi… (Not me…)
Le Servan Paris's citrus tart with fresh citrus suprêmes and pistachios, demonstrating the restaurant's pastry excellence.
The other dessert, a citrus tart in a wonderfully crisp, buttery crust, was equally sensational. It too tasted freshly baked, cooled just enough to cradle a tangy lemon/lime filling, and topped with vibrant fresh citrus suprêmes and pistachios. It was the perfect culmination to an outstanding meal, solidifying my decision to become a regular patron of Le Servan once again.
Le Servan
32 rue Saint-Maur (11th)
Tél: 01 55 28 51 82
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*Food writer Alec Lobrano eloquently captured the essence of Le Servan in 2014 in his insightful review of the restaurant.
